The Materials: Ink and Paper.
First of all, let me be clear: I love paint. I want all the colors. I can spend days making color charts. Eight tubes of earth red oil colors is not overkill; believe me, Venetian red is not Pompeian red is not Terra Rosa is not Pozzuoli earth, and that's just Williamsburg.
And now there is INK.
(A disclaimer, of sorts: trials and practice have gone on now for more than a year. This post is a description of where I started. Some learning and plain old mind-changing have happened over time, which I'll eventually get to. Probably.)
My back-of-the-drawer tools and supplies included an Osmiroid calligraphy pen from the 70s with nibs; a half-empty bottle of Higgins drawing ink with a funky smell and some...globs and another mostly empty bottle of THICK Pelikan blue fountain pen ink; and a couple of plastic nib holders and some Speedball B and C nibs, including a set for lefties (where did
that come from?). I put in an order to
John Neal Books for some new ink, nibs, and two Pilot Parallel pens, so I could get going while I figured out what I was actually doing.
I tried all the papers I have on hand (hot and cold press watercolor paper from Arches, NY Central, and Fabriano; Hahnemuhle Bugra and Ingres; Canson Mi-Teintes, Ingres, and Edition; Rives BFK and Lightweight--OK, I also love paper), looking for one that was not too white, had minimal texture (but not
very smooth), took both ink and paint well, wasn't too thick or stiff to fold for a book, and was still available (unlike beautiful Zerkall Nideggan) at a reasonable price. Eventually I settled on Arches Text Wove, a 100% cotton paper with (from the
Velin d'Arches website) "very good mechanical strength [and the] pleasure of using a soft, supple, noble material [with] unbelievable feel." Because who wouldn't want to work, for the weeks and months this project may take, on a surface both supple
and noble? A full sheet is 25 1/2 " x 40"--which cuts up pretty economically into eight bifolia per sheet with a folio (page) size of 6 3/8" x 10".
In the decades since I bought the now odorous ink, a whole cult of fountain pens and inks for them has grown up. There are artisan inks with names like "Squeteague," "Walks Over Vistula," and "Moon Jellyfish." Inks that shade, sheen, shimmer--and smell, on purpose, like violets or Christmas trees. I wanted brown ink, because I like brown ink, but also for the look of age and to show some variation, a grayish brown, fairly dark. I had bought two from John Neal, Higgins sepia and Noodler's walnut, but wasn't happy with either one: I worried that the Higgins wasn't really meant for fountain pens, and the Noodler's was just too red, a red that seeped to the edges of the letter, a kind of interesting effect but not what I wanted.
[Just as an example,
Vanness Pen Shop has
309 products tagged as "brown" ink, with
76 choices from the manufacturer deAtramis alone. And so many
other colors! I was in trouble. (As in the
Mark Knopfler song.) Over the months I purchased more than a few, from several sources, but most of them are not
quite right.]
I now have a walnut ink made from crystals (from peat, I think, like Van Dyck brown), a lovely color that works well with a dip pen but can't be used in fountain pens. Two iron gall inks that, again, can only go in the Osmiroid if I'm very careful about flushing it regularly. (Not likely.) To get started I used a safe choice, Pelikan brilliant brown modifed with a drop of black.
Then there's paint. Illuminated manuscripts have pictures as well as words. Calligraphers like
Patricia Lovett recommend gouache for its opacity and adjustable consistency; others use watercolor. I have a set of
Shin Han gouache, which I like very much, and a full watercolor palette from experiments in the last couple of years--
and a lifetime of painting.
Daniel Smith makes a line of mineral watercolors they call
PrimaTek, and they have put together a sampler of cards with dots of all the colors.
I chose a few of these for my initial palette: Jadeite (dark green), Sodalite (dark blue), Amethyst and Sugilite (violets, dark and light, with a little shimmer), Fuchsite (light green, also shimmery), and Mayan blue (lighter and more green). (To my surprise, those dots go quite far!) Cadmium Scarlet gouache for vermilion. Some Schmincke gold gouache powder (bought at Pearl Paint in NYC at some point in the last century) for, well, gold.
Enough to get started.